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February 2007 |
25/02/07
Time flew at Fossil Bluff, quite literally! After the rash of three Twin Otters in one flight, as the closed down Sky Blu, at the start of my stay at the Bluff; everything then calmed down as our sole duty was to provide Met ops for the scientific flights to the north and east of us. Much of the time was spent sitting around the Raeburn baking bread, thinking what we could cook for dinner, drinking tea and making hourly weather reports. One evening after a particularly long session of sitting around in the hut, we decided to climb the Pyramid, a hill to the west of us and clearly visible from the verandah. This is regarded by some as easy, but mainly due to the snow cover. When Tom ( a seasoned field assistant) and I did it we were greeted with less snow and more frosty rock. But Tom persuaded up the harder parts and even though it is only 750 m odd, it was a good climb.
The next day we were visited by some VIPs. The Science Minister, Malcolm Wicks and Lord Oxburgh had travelled south to see what really happens in the Antarctic and they were guided by Prof. Rapley, our director who is due to depart this year. So Tom and I greeted the plan at the skiway, and then took them to the hut were Tom had made scones and tea. we then took them for a walk to Belemnite Valley were Fossil Bluff gets its name, by the profusion of fossils that scatter the surface. My claim to fame was that the Minister used my walking boots, he didn't sign them though! |
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18/02/07
I hope that you found the commentary on a day in the life of a boatman interesting? Although the general duties might not differ greatly, delivering scientists from island to island or providing SAR cover and taking the divers out to the same spots, the environment changes greatly, from the state of the ice-cliffs which rumble like thunder throughout the day, to the icebergs that drift about, breakup and roll around as well as the weather affecting the views of glaciers and mountains. BAS is an organisation that thrives on the professionalism of its employees in their roles but also the manner by which we can turn to other trades. And so it is that I find myself as one of the two most southerly BAS personnel on the peninsula. As summer begins to wane, so the field parties start to withdraw from the deepest parts of Antarctica. To support these operations, there are multiple depots of fuel dotted about the region but also two summer outposts called Fossil Bluff and Sky Blu. Sky Blu is the most southerly at 74° 51' S, 71° 34' W and is the main hub for field parties heading further south. It is established on ice and when groomed by ice-blowers can land the Dash 7 that has wheels. This allows for large quantities of fuel to be brought in thus allowing for the Twin Otters to increase their range. The Twin Otters are smaller aircraft that have deployable skis and are flown by one pilot with a member of base personnel to assist. The Twin Otters are the workhorses of the Antarctic as they distribute personnel, link logistics and provide flexible platforms for scientific apparatus that allows for the data accumulation over large distances. They cannot get to Sky Blu in one straight flight. Fossil Bluff was established in 1961 on Alexander Island looking out over the King George Sound. So called due to the proliferation of fossils in the surrounding bedrock and because it is located on a bluff, this hut is immortalised in BAS folklore due to its antiquated nature.
As I write this, Tom (a field assistant) is throwing together a chilli on the Raeburn. The hut is essentially one room with four beds, a communications station and kitchen. The Raeburn is run on Avtur (essentially, aviation grade kerosene) and provides heat for the hut. There is a pot of water always on the heat and we have a pot of soup simmering in the lower oven. The walls are home to supplies and paraphernalia from the past. The beds are two bunk beds and the comms bench has an HF radio set, chargers for the satellite phone and other radio sets and a weather station. From here, we feed met weather data to planes and Rothera Ops, and at times it is possible to contact other bases. There is a pantry/bootroom/workshop/gash shed. There is a generator shed with a heavy duty genny run of ... surprise, surprise ... avtur. This used only occasionally for 240V supply. Two large 12V batteries are charged by a wind generator and solar panels, and run the radio set, an inverter and various components. There is an emergency caboose, basically a small caravan that we could retire to should there be a fire in the main hut. A small distance away is the garage with an old muskeg vehicle inside and tools for any requirement. And finally, the outhouse. This little hut is located a good 75m down the hill and holds a Sorburn loo which basically runs on gas and incinerates once full. Very useful in this environment, though we still have a chemical toilet if it runs out of gas.
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11/02/07
So eleven days later, I finally sit down to update the blog site. It is rather frustrating that I haven't been able to achieve this until now. I think the best excuse might be to give you an incite into a day in the life of the boatman. I rise at 7am after the second alarm clock has gone off. This is met by the grunts of Gavin, my roommate, from the bunk above. A majority of personnel are accommodated in Admirals House. A long building fronting the main complex, there are 46 rooms with 2 beds and a shower room in each. During the winter, all the winterers will live here and probably get a room looking to the NW over the runway. This makes for little sleep when the Air Unit is busy, either because the runway sirens go off when aircraft land, or the air mechs play Jonny cash loud in an oversized gramophone, the hangar. I climb into the pile of clothes laid neatly by my bed, brush my teeth gather my jacket and stuff my pockets. the room is at the north end of Admirals. The boatshed is to the south of the base; I don't often return until late evening. My walk to Bransfield (the hub of the base) is short but while straining to open my sleep-stained eyes, I look north to check Hangar Cove (a popular dive site) and as I climb the verandah steps, south over Ryder Bay. I'm checking the weather and to see where the ice (mainly little bergy bits) is and what the wind is doing. Often you know what the day is going to be like in those first five minutes. (NB It is known to trip over seals on this short walk, fur seals being the less popular kind to bump into) On entry to Bransfield, you dump you, rather hang, your jacket and swap your boots in the ground floor boot room. we try to keep the first floor clean as that is where a lot of life revolves. Then upstairs to the dining room, which brings back memories of school canteens. At present a 'New Bransfield' is being built so usually you'll find Morrison chaps polishing off a hearty breakfast before an early start. I've settled into a bit of a routine now, as many people do. I'll have a small bowl of porridge followed by 4 slices of brown toast, if its available, with butter and marmalade, and water to wash it all down. There have been comments about the methodical nature of my spreading, but I just like to make the most of the toast. The marmalade is classic thick cut from 1995, with the gollywog tokens on, [sign] memories of childhood. There are magazines to read or newspaper print offs from the weekend to read. the magazines all appear to be from 2003 and the newspaper is normally in pieces and covered in jam and coffee. At 7:45, I'll sidle into the Met office with the pilots, a couple of field assistants and some management for a weather briefing. We have a forecaster on loan from the Met Office who uses models, satellite imagery and on-the-ground reports to brief the pilots on whether they can get to their destinations, generally Fossil Bluff and Sky Blu, further to the south. Then at the end, the local weather for boating. My presence allows for liaison with the Air Unit over the requirement of Search and Rescue cover for any flights. If the weather is good and I know that there is number of boating requests, I'll be straight down to the boatshed. the boatshed is one of the further buildings on base and I benefit from the exercise. I get a nice view across Ryder Bay as I walk and the wind is often behind me. I'll check and warm the tractor, switch on the computer, and check the boats over for fuel in the tanks and air in the tubes. By this time, the fresh coffee is brewed and Bernard and I will stop, discuss the weather and enjoy the calm before the storm. Then at 8:30, it's into the Bonner lab for the dive meeting. I'll give them an assessment of the day's capabilities and Kelvin the Dive Officer holds court and decides what dives will occur. At the end, any other boating requests will be aired and I'll return to the boatshed and organise the boats. 'Stella' the dive boat has to be moved to the Bonner for loading with gear, 'Discovery' the CTD boat moves further up the Bonner for loading with scientific kit while the other boats will be prepped for any other trips. At the moment, there is Bernard (the departing boatman) and I who share the work, and we have to organise other coxswains and competent crew if required. we keep Ops(=Operations Tower) notified of the boat activities for the day and personnel involved. At 10:30, base will slow as people stop for 'Smoko', or coffee break. If we can, the boatman will rest but often we squeeze a coffee in between boat trips. there will be maybe two dives in the morning at a variety of sites, and a couple of scientists to deliver to the islands for some fieldwork. Lunch is at 1pm, and we'll wander back up the hill. the chefs do an amazing job and cook great quantities of high carb food. if the Dash 7 is back from the Falklands then there will often be fresh fruit and veg, but if your fancy is chocolate, then there is mountains of Dairy Milk! Back down the hill after maybe stopping off at other departments around base to gather materials or source some work required, and back out onto the water. The day finishes at 5:30pm for most folk, but you'll mainly find yourself closing the boatshed at 6:15pm, after competing boating reports and making sure the boats are in good condition. Dinner is filling and there is always a dessert to try to fit in. You can eat as much as you like, but with big plates you'll often be full after one course. This is a period when folk will catch up and indulge in conversation. You can move to the bar where you'll be able to have your two pre-ordered beers and maybe play darts or pool. There is sometimes other activities like football, a table tennis tournament or some extra-curricular training. For me, I'm often bushed from the days work and retire to my room for a shower and shave. I'll come back over to Bransfield for a social beer. A couple of times a week, Alistair the doctor and I will skin up to the top of Vals (the local ski slope). We drive ourselves hard up the 353 metres over the four miles. along with a good workout and a rewarding view, we also enjoy the quiet, emission-free element of skiing up, rather then riding a skidoo. If there is someone up there already there then there is the benefit of being able to ski the slope a couple of times. I'm learning to nordic ski and there is much entertainment for the doc as I swear and grunt my way down the hill. I head to bed at 11pm, read alittle and drink as much water as possible. Admirals is kept warm and many feel the effects of nocturnal dehydration. it is now getting dark at midnight, and we've had the last of the fine sea horizon sunsets.
More photos to follow shortly... |
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1/02/07
Big Apologies to all those that have been logging on to catch up. Its been pretty mental here to be quite honest. The reigns of responsibility have been handed over now, so all boating operations are under my guidance. So what has happened in the last couple of weeks. Well, we've had the ITN news team here. HRH The Princess Royal has been down with HMS Endurance. Then RRS James Clark Ross came in for a quick relief. A week later and RV Lawrence M Gould (an American research ship) stopped by for a visit. This week, I've been diving and have various training courses extra to the standard demands on boating, like Oil Spill Response, Major Incident Procedure and Boat Scenarios. I've also been wired up for our Doctor's MSc thesis and made to run till exhaustion. This being the start of his year long study on winter and its effect on physiology. Lets not forget some windy weather, rain and training new crew. Its full and fun and I love it, but I'm afraid the long days are taking their toll and with 'the lergy' doing the rounds, I'm conscious of not getting too exhausted. Still I'm making this entry at 0015. I hope you have been able to glimpse a little of life down here on the ITN News broadcasts. If you don’t have a TV or live outside of the UK, here’s a taster of the perils of our job! Intro: The coxswain of the RIB is Bernard (the Winter 06 Boatman- soon to depart), Mark Austin is the ITN presenter, and we’re giving them a glimpse of navigating around the icebergs of our local waters. I am in a second boat following them, through the gap. Eugene shows why he is a first class cameraman: http://www.itn.co.uk/news/player.html?section=index&video_id=3533a55c5755d79976d083d17b2455f9 (NB you need Macromedia Flashplayer 9 to view it- http://www.adobe.com/shockwave/download/download.cgi?P1_Prod_Version=ShockwaveFlash. You might also be advised to watch it in Internet Explorer.) My Competent Crew-in-Training summarises the experience: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKACt52wzYI Later that day, while the ITN crew are filming some geologists, we head to Lagoon Island for a break. Little did we know our day of adventures is not yet over: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlgvOWEqpBs
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